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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Toilet Backs up
Keep after the manufacturer and warranty. This is a well known problem with some 5th wheels with a more "crooked" pipe to the tank. I've seen them redone; filing the inside joints and using silicone to prevent catches. A temporary fix at best. It is not you and yours but the design that's faulty; don't let them tell you to use more water as above. Good luck, VK
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vikx
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09/10/08 12:53am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ever installed propane????
Hang in there K-mann, everybody needs to do their homework and start somewhere. I totally agree that you might get a "complete idiot" doing the work at a shop. Have it tested and be safe. VK
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vikx
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08/09/08 12:46am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Palomino yearling heater trouble
The sail switch is very close to the fan. It senses the fan is running and allows power to the board. You have to take most furnaces out/apart to reach it. It has a long blade on it which closes the switch when enough air hits it. Another cause of this furnace behavior is a bad or weak fan motor-not turning fast enough to actuate the sail. VK
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vikx
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08/05/08 01:26am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ever installed propane????
I would go with 3/8 tubing, flare fittings and flare valves, usually available at a good hardware store. No sense in going up and down in sizes...I agree with the above that you may need 1/2" black iron under the van and tee off to the appliances. As I remember, you're only supplying two appliances fairly close to the tank, so 3/8 copper may work just fine. Sounds like you have this figured out! Have fun, VK
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vikx
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08/05/08 01:00am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: gorilla glue for exterior
Gorilla Glue tends to "grow". It's like spray in expander foam in a bottle. If you can clamp together, it works. On a logo, I'm thinking it might make a nasty mess. The "overglue" is fairly easy to trim but I doubt you could clamp it tight enough. (experiment first to see if you like gorilla glue) Why not use automotive trim cement or two sided tape and some small screws? Am not sure about the wind deflector. VK
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vikx
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08/03/08 01:02am |
Tech Issues
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RE: when you work on your rv does it remind you of your dad?
Yes! Just the other day he told me to go get his nut splitter on a difficult faucet nut-what a help. He passed in 2003 and I miss him everyday, VK
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vikx
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08/03/08 12:54am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ever installed propane????
Common size is 3/8" tubing which fits 3/8" flare nuts. Be careful buying it as there are two: inside and outside diameter and thet're not always labled clearly. I always "look" to see if it's the right tubing and the flare nuts fit. The factory shut off at the fridge is only for that appliance. If you want a shut off at each appliance, you'll have to add some. VK
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vikx
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08/01/08 12:00am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: B warm
I agree, the Olympian is safer, works better and doesn't fail at elevation. The Wave 3 should be fine for a smaller B.You can even sleep with it with a vent/window opening. (square inches required to vent the heater are in the instructions) VK
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vikx
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07/31/08 11:36pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: replacing shower (fixed) skylight
Sorry to hear of this new development. Been there...I have a couple of ideas for you. First, check to see if there's another roof protrusion that could be leaking with the water running to the low corner of the skylight. Sometimes water will travel quite a ways before dripping down. Also, even tho it sounds like you already have, make sure you really gooped the Dicor on-it takes at least a caulk tube per skylight or vent.
Leaks can be frustrating and very difficult to trace. Hang in there. When it dries out, check all the vents, edges and anything else up there that could leak. Good Luck! VK
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vikx
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07/30/08 11:24pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: replacing shower (fixed) skylight
Try to put a lot more than a bead of Dicor. It's made to self level and you'll need a good wide layer of it to seal. Sounds like you've done a great job getting the old off-Dicor will take care of the rest; goop the screw heads well. You might try to drill and screw the replacement wood to the metal after Liquid nails to give you a bit more strength. VK
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vikx
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07/28/08 12:28am |
Tech Issues
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RE: replacing shower (fixed) skylight
Othertonka got it right. Butyl tape goes UNDER the flange. VK
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vikx
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07/26/08 12:36am |
Tech Issues
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RE: What is this switch for?
Could be a 12 volt hot wire for your 7 way. The switch would turn this on and off? The wiring looks fairly light guage; maybe they were blowing fuses or running the battery down if a trailer was connected. Just a guess. VK
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vikx
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07/14/08 12:23am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacing gate valve on Montana 5th
Well, if there's absolutely no other way, consider a "fernco" connector. They are rubber with radiator clamps-a quick way to connect a pipe you may have to cut. (and move again in the future) I haven't had the situation you describe, where there is no way to slip the valve out. Cutting and glueing with a cupler would work as well. VK
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vikx
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07/08/08 01:00am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacing gate valve on Montana 5th
The valve is just a skinny thing-about 3/4"? maybe. The things you're seeing in the pipe are the flange adapters. I'm wondering is something is stuck together? You're right, it should just slip out and the new one in. A good night's rest and it'll happen. Good Luck, VK
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vikx
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07/07/08 01:01am |
Tech Issues
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RE: rewiring ac motor fron 220 to 110 volts
On ours, I vaguely remember having to change the wires on the motor terminals but can't remember exactly. Have you done a search on the pump brand or contacted a supplier? Good Luck, VK
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vikx
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07/07/08 12:54am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 15 amp breaker gets hot then trips
14 wire is rated at 15 amps max. I would not take the chance of installing a 20 amp breaker with 14 wire. The WIRE may bet hot instead of the breaker if the amperage use is exceeded. VK
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vikx
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07/07/08 12:47am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 15 amp breaker gets hot then trips
Sounds to me like you have a Square D Homeline twin with both a 15 amp and 20 amp breaker. If this is the case, sometimes they do get hotter than a single, especially if the 20 amp side is running the A/C, as Mel said. If there is another 20 amp circuit (say for the microwave), you might be able to switch the A/C over. Also note what previous posters said about corroded/loose wires. VK
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vikx
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07/05/08 11:44pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Need Heat - Minimal Propane Usage
The only thing I can think of is an Olympian Wave 8 with a thermostat. They use 12 volt power and have a small fan. Also probably overkill for the temps you want. The Wave heaters are a little more controllable temperature wise than the Buddy. You might check out the Wave 3 (3000 BTU on High)and 6(6000 BTUs on High). They would be on all night but set on "Low", a 3 would not cook you in a larger rig. Guessing, I would say you'd get around 1500 BTU on Low.(I use them in vintage travel trailers, 15 footers) VK
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vikx
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07/03/08 12:45am |
Tech Issues
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RE: No power unless plugged in for tent trailer
Strollin is correct on the converter. You've got a problem between the battery and the trailer. Unplug shore power and test the 12 volt power lugs on the fuse board. There should be a large (usually red) wire from the battery and the ground (usually white). If there's no 12 volts, trace backwards toward the battery and test.
After installing the breakers, did you test for 12 volts on both studs of the breaker? If there's 12 volts, you can go toward the trailer, testing as you go. You may have a crimped wire somewhere and the breaker is actually doing it's job, not allowing power when there's a short.
Double check for main fuses at the converter. They can be hidden; usually 30 amps. Also check voltage at battery, it should be around 12.6. Another thought: see if you can trace the main power wire from the fuse board back to the battery. That will allow you to check for damage or breaks. VK
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vikx
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07/01/08 11:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: No power unless plugged in for tent trailer
The two silver boxes sound like the resettable 12 volt circuit breakers. Yes, replacing them may fix your problem. Buy the same amperage (20? 30?)of the originals. When you replace them, check all the connections and wiring to make sure they were not melted/hot at one time. If the new breakers fail, then you've got to trace down why.
Your system works like this: the converter changes 110 house power into 12 volts to run the systems in the trailer. It also charges the battery when plugged in. The battery runs the 12 volt items when unplugged. The circuit breakers in line between the battery and converter protect against shorted wiring. If the breaker(s) fail, you have no 12 volts to the trailer. Good Luck. VK
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vikx
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07/01/08 12:52am |
Tech Issues
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